We had a great
time today. This morning papa got a letter from
Lord Dundonald asking us to see him at ten o’clock.
We went to his house in Portman Square after
breakfast. It is just a typical London house
outside, but a perfect mansion inside full of
lovely things and old paintings. Everything
was done up in linen dust covers and he seemed
to be living there all alone with out [sic]
his family. He was very nice but seemed rather
sad. Papa thinks he must have had some trouble
for he is not even in the English army now."
the time Lord Dundonald was in Canada as chief
of the Canadian staff, my father saw a great deal
of him. In my father’s eyes he was a British soldier
serving that Empire for which they both had such
a patriotic love, and also he was a member of
the English army who had seen active service,
and knew of the actions of the home Government
in London, which was the great heart of the Empire
from where she had been controlled for centuries.
Here was a man my father had approached with searching
eyes; looking for those things he had expected
of him and had not been disappointed. They had
many discussions, and made many plans, and if
these were not taken seriously on Lord Dundonald’s
part, my father did not find it out. I remember
his going to Alexandria with Lord Dundonald for
some Highland games and military manoeuvres there,
and coming back so elated. The people had given
Lord Dundonald a wonderful reception there. All
their plans were nipped in the bud, however, and
the home government was asked to recall Lord Dundonald.
We shan’t go into the details of the issue, and
perhaps their plans were a bit out of place in
a new country, that still did not know its own
mind, but it was a great heartbreak to my father,
and must have been also to Lord Dundonald. He
certainly had won the sympathy of the soldiers
and people, for when he went away they gave him
a wonderful send off. The streets where he was
to pass were lined with people, and the soldiers
took the horses from his carriage, and drove him
to the station themselves. His life was spent
doing what he thought would build up the Empire,
in whose service he was prepared to spend and
be spent to the uttermost. The letter continues:–
Lord Dundonald’s house we went to the High Commissioner’s
office, where we had an engagement with Boyce
MacKenzie at 11.30. He is such a fine looking
man, and a cousin of my mother’s. He asked us
to visit him in Tonbridge Wells. While we were
talking to him, some queer woman came rushing
in, grabbed papa by the hand and addressed him
as the Mayor of Ottawa who had written poetry
on the Indians. She described some exciting
experiences she had had in Labrador, and said
she was nearly killed hanging on to the side
of a ship with her photograph under her arm,
her only possession apparently worth saving
in a shipwreck. Papa’s agonized expression was
too funny, and he made his escape as soon as
possible. Boyce MacKenzie roared with laughter.
This lady wanted to be written up and be a heroine
poor dear. One meets a good many people travelling
about over here of that type, people who have
literary or other aspirations, and are seeking
for some outlet to express them, poor humans
chasing that elusive thing just beyond them.
We went to the
Army and Navy for lunch and after to the Tate
Gallery and Westminster Abbey—Westminster Abbey
with its soaring Arches, lovely and ethereal
of line, yet withal so massive—the resting place
of our sleeping great ones."
father loved pictures, especially the portraits
of the British school of portrait painting, of
that marvelous period Lord Ernest Hamilton writes
so charmingly about in "Old Days And New."
the field of painting alone it is thought almost
beyond the reach of our reeling brains, that
no more than fifty years of civilized life separate
Millais from the matchless galaxy of great painters
who immortalized the features of our great-grandmothers.
Perhaps we may stretch our pedigrees a little
farther and say the features of our grandmamma’s
grandmamma, during the reigns of the third and
forth Georges. Within twelve years of the close
of the last century a patron of the Art might
have organized a party during which he would
have enjoyed the Society of Reynolds, Gainsborough,
Hoppener, Romney, Raeburn, Opie, Morland, Turner,
Coustable and Lawrence. All of these immortal
artists might have sat round the same dinner
table, and quaffed the same red wine in 1788."
that time my father thought the Gods walked the
earth, and deemed these artists such. He adored
their pictures with their wonderful natural colorings,
so foreign to modern futuristic and cubest paintings.
He was very proud of the fact that a great, or
great great uncle of his, John Stephen Berridge
was a famous pupil of Sir Joshua Reynolds, and
painted pictures of sufficient merit to have engravings
from them at the National Portrait Gallery in
London. There is an engraving there of a portrait
he painted of his sister, Faith Henrietta Berridge
as Diana. The letter continues:—
we received an invitation to go to lunch with
Lady Frances Balfour, then to go and see Mr.
Alex Fisher the artist, and after to have tea
with Mrs. George Noble. (He is now Sir George[.])
We also got an invitation to go to the House
of Lords on Friday. We were to go to Tunbridge
Wells on Friday but shan’t go till Monday. Yesterday
we went calling, and on Monday and Tuesday we
went to see the editors. Mr. Gwyne of the "Standard"
was very nice."
We arrived here
yesterday at noon, and Mrs. Mackenzie is just
as nice as she can be. (Boyce Mackenzie is a
cousin of my mother’s[.]) They have a fine house
in a nice garden, and there is a little boy
Ian of seven at home who has a governess. The
baby Eileen is three with hair like guinea gold.
There are three older boys at school. Mrs. MacKenzie
is Irish and in the evenings after dinner plays
the harp and sings very sweetly to it. Ian dictates
poetry to me by the yard to write down for him.
It is lovely here, and we couldn’t have chosen
a nicer place to have a perfect rest in.
The people in
London were so kind, and just showered us with
invitations, but we had to refuse them as we
had already postponed our visit here. The Duchess
of Sutherland invited us to an "At Home"
for this afternoon and Mrs. Noble asked us to
one tomorrow, and the Duchess again on Monday.
We were also invited to a party at Lord Strathcona's,
and a dinner at the Bishop of Ripon's at his
London house. It has been just like this ever
since they have known we were here. The ten
days we were in London were a perfect rush,
and papa got so tired, that we came here refusing
all invitations till next Monday when we go
to London. The Bishop and Mrs. Boyd Carpenter
have invited us to visit them at Ripon in August.
I had a very nice
time at Lady Frances Balfour's on Sunday. She
has four children and a nice house with a garden.
The eldest girl Joan is younger than I am, and
seems to feel it such a bore that she is not
yet grown up, and that her hair is still down.
She asked me if I had a maid, and when I said
no, she wondered how I could possibly manage
without one. She kept referring to the Princess
as Aunt Louise. They were nice, but I was not
thrilled with Joan, though Lady Frances is a
brilliant woman with a quick wit and a ready
answer. She is an ardent suffragette, and smokes
cigarettes (not so much done in those 1906 days).
The other afternoon
we called on Mr. Garvin the editor of the "Outlook"
(now of the Sunday Observer) to whom Lord Grey
had given papa a letter. He is [a] fine
clever looking man and a great wit. He had two
assistent editors, Mr. Buch, and Mr. Greig (so
We went to the
House of Lords last Friday. There is not much
difference between it and our Canadian Senate,
just a few old men arguing without much formality.
The most of them were feeble looking and did
not stand very straight. We saw Lord Reay, and
the wife of the Archbishop of Canterbury was
there with us and papa had a talk with her."
"We have been nearly two weeks, and are
going to stay till Wednesday when we go to London
to dine with the Bishop of Ripon and Mrs. Boyd
On Saturday we
are going to a garden party at Lord Strathcona’s
place, "Knebworth." It is Bulwer Lytton’s
old home, and Lord Strathcona has rented it.
We will be in London about a week, then Mrs.
MacKenzie wants me to come back here, while
papa attends to his affairs. A good many editors
and literary men wish to see him. He spoke at
a garden party yesterday in Tunbridge Wells
and read, "Show the Way England."
Miss Grey has
asked us to spend a couple of days with them
at Moreton Pinkey Manor on our way north. (A
cousin of Lord Grey and a daughter of Admiral
Papa spent an
afternoon with Rudyard Kipling at his place
Burwash here in Kent. He was very much taken
with Mr. Kipling and seemed to think it was
We won’t be able
to go to Skibs as Mr. Carnegie's little girl
is very ill. She had an accident, and they are
not at the castle."
Carnegie had a special edition of 500 volumes
of my father’s "Collected Poems" published
to present to his different libraries in Canada
and the States. Here is an interesting quotation
from one of his letters written to my father in
thanks for the copy of your latest. You do indeed
strike upon the real tragedy of Man; but I console
myself with this: "All is well since all
grows better." We should seek not in this
life to make heaven our home, but to make home
other day we drove to an old castle Penshurst
where the Sydneys lived. It has lovely old furniture,
a spinet, china and paintings. There are special
apartments that were Queen Elizabeth’s when
she stayed there.
We have only had
two dark days since we came to England, and
the roses and weather are lovely."
"We left Tunbridge Wells on the 11th. coming
up to London where we found very good lodgings.
On Wednesday we dined with the Bishop of Ripon
and Mrs. Boyd Carpenter at eight o’clock. It
was a very fashionable dinner of fourteen people.
Mrs. Boyd Carpenter was very nice and kind and
looked quite like Lady Drummond only older.
The Bishop, his wife and two of their daughters
made up the house party, while the visitors
were Lord and Lady Levin (who since have restored
Holyrood) Mr. Courtney a prominent editor, a
French gentleman and his wife, and the Bishop’s
son-in-law, who took me in to dinner. Mrs. Boyd
Carpenter said to me, "Where did you come
from, out of the schoolroom?"
All the ladies
were beautifully dressed and wore diamonds,
Lady Levin wore a diamond tiara. The bishop
is a short man, with a very strong kind face,
and grey curly hair; most picturesque. He wore
a purple coat to his knees, knee breeches, and
a black thing in front to his knees like an
apron. His daughters were both very nice, especially
the older. The youngest was rather simply dressed
in a white net dress, but it had been washed
and starched, I could see that. She wore a gold
chain with a jewel pendant, and a couple of
bracelets in the way of jewelry. Mrs. Boyd Carpenter
was so kind and spoke to everybody about papa’s
poetry, and said that Lord Grey had written
asking them to do their best to make it known
in this country, and how much they themselves
admired it. She took his book off the drawing-room
table where it was lying, and showed it to them,
and asked them to read particularly his "Sagas
of Vaster Britain," and last of all but
not least "Unabsolved." She asked
Mr. Courtney to send for a copy of papa’s poetry,
and he said he would at once. When we were leaving
she again asked us to visit them later. She
said she would have a house-party of young people,
and that I would be sure to enjoy myself.
When we got back
to our lodgings the other night, the land-lady
met us in the hall very mysteriously and said,
"The Duke of Argyll is waiting up stairs
in your sitting-room. He has been here twice
before to-day to see you." That was my
first meeting with that great hearted gentleman,
and as I was all prepared to love him, and there
was no reason why I shouldn’t I promptly did.
My father had not seem him for five years, so
he had come to call and ask us to go to Scotland
with him when he went in August. We were thrilled,
and I thought of the wonder of going to the
castle of our ancestors in the country that
had bred them for centuries, a country simply
saturated with their history and legends. To
go there with and as the guest of our hereditary
chief, was all that one could ask. He said he
was "The Ancient—my ancestor," that
was his little farewell joke.
"At present I am with Mrs. Swainston (a
cousin of my paternal grandfather)[.] She is
so kind and takes me to all kinds of places
in London that papa has not got time to get
to. I was quite tired of going round all day
with him to the publishers, and was so pleased
when Mrs. Swainston asked me to visit her.
You have no idea
how hot and dirty London can be, as you were
not here when they had these dreadful motor
buses. They have been running for nine months
now and they say [they] have made London a different
place. Everybody is against them (an echo of
dear old Mrs. Swainston, and it makes me laugh
after all these years, when motors are everywhere
even in the air) and dreadful accidents happen
everyday, and London houses go down in value
for people keep moving out all the time. So
it is very nice out here, and you get away from
the dirt and noise, and yet you are within close
enough distance of London. We dined at Miss
Green’s (Mrs. Swainston’s sister) and papa said,
that he had got on much better that day without
is a note in Klinck’s handwriting here that reads:
"In MSS these words are stroked out (‘) Don’t
be discouraged if you get a depressive letter
from him for if we have had as’."]
heard the Bishop of Ripon preach at St. Paul[’]s
last Sunday night, and it was the finest sermon
I have ever heard. They say he is the strongest
and most eloquent preacher in England. There
were hundreds of people and it was marvelous
to see the power he had over them, and to hear
his voice in the stillness of that vast palace.
The Bishop is a literary man and writes himself.
A week ago we
were at a garden party at Knebworth, Lord Strathcona’s
place that he rents from Lord Lytton. It was
purely a colonial affair with Lord Dundonald,
and the Duke of Argyll to represent the aristocracy
as my knowledge of the British aristocracy was
not very extensive, this statement may, or may
not be correct, as I would not have recognized
many of its members it they had been there)[.]
"Papa and I had tea with Miss Trowbridge
yesterday. She played "The Dirge"
and a new thing she had just composed. She played
most beautifully, and you couldn’t imagine it
possible that anyone could get so much out of
that dirge. She is setting "Beyond The
Hills of Dream" to music. (My father was
a great lover of music though he had no knowledge
The other day
papa got a letter from the Bishop of Ripon telling
him to send his poems at once to the King with
a letter direct instead of through the usual
channels these things go, which he did. Also
he has been asked to compose a poem as a companion
to one Rudyard Kipling is to write on the same
subject. His novel will be published next month
in book form by his Edinburgh publishers. He
has interviews with papers all the time that
are continually writing articles about him and
quoting his verse.
Lord Percy invited
papa to tea on the terrace at the House of Commons.
He had a very nice time, and he has been invited
to lunch at Sion House a famous old historical
place with Lord Percy’s mother, The Duchess
of Northumberland who is a sister (Edith) of
the Duke of Argyll."
"We are with Miss Grey now at Moreton Pinkney.
It is a lovely place with nice gardens, and
some fine old family portraits. We came here
yesterday and go to London on Wednesday, when
we go north with the Duke to Inverary. We are
leaving the Ripon visit till Sept. as we could
not manage it any earlier. Mrs. Boyd Carpenter
seemed to prefer it too.
week we lunched with Captain and Lady Margery
Sinclair (now Lord and Lady Pentland) in town.
Lady Margery was very pleasant, and is really
good looking with a very sweet face and manner.
They have a little baby, and there were several
baby things lying about the drawing-room, among
them a large grey elephant on the arm of one
of the sofas, such a nice atmosphere. At lunch
the only other guest was a good looking young
man, Mr. Lamont a member for Bute. He asked
us if we would like to go to the house of Commons.
As it is quite difficult to get admission to,
especially for ladies, we accepted though papa
already had two tickets for himself. At four
o’clock we went, but it was rather dull as there
was nothing particular on."
"There are four dear little children here
grand-nieces of miss Grey’s the Wykern Mosgroves.
They departed this afternoon with their maid
and governess. We went to the station with them,
and after to see Canon’s Ashley a very old place
that belonged to Dryden the poet. It is an estate
of some hundred acres, and there is an old church
on the property that was built in the time of
William the conqueror. The dining-room is paneled
in oak, and there are several tapestried rooms,
and a large hall with old armour and furniture
where we had tea. We could see little spotted
deer from the window, they were so tame, and
came so close. The poet died in this house.
On Saturday we
drove to Culworth and saw the old manor where
Dorothy Danvers (some relative) was born, and
the old church. Papa was most anxious to see
this. From there we went to Sulgrave Manor where
George Washington’s family came from, and we
also saw the old church where his ancestors
were buried." (Sulgrave Manor has since
been taken charge of and restored by the Americans)[.]
"We left Moreton Pinkney on Wednesday at
noon, traveling part way with the Greys who
were going to visit their sister. In the afternoon
we had tea at Claridge’s hotel in London with
Katharine Bruce, (American cousin) and the same
night we went north with the Duke to Scotland.
We met him at King’s Cross station at nine o’clock
and he had our state-rooms engaged three in
a row in a corridor car, not like the sleeping
cars in Canada. His man looked after our luggage.
I was so happy to be with the Duke and to know
that we were to be with him for some time. I
loved his kindly genial face and felt as if
I had known him all my life. We retired as soon
as we went aboard the train after inspecting
our state-rooms. I sat wondering and listening
for ages, while the train rushed northward to
In the morning
when we got to Glasgow we walked to the North
British hotel for breakfast, so we saw a very
little of the city. I was not present when the
Duke ordered breakfast but he much have asked
papa what I liked to drink, for when I appeared
he presented me with a large two pound tin of
Fry’s cocoa, and remarked that it was for Miss
Cocoa Campbell. When we got on the train again
he had this tin of cocoa sticking out of one
coat pocket, and an old cap sticking out of
the other to wear when we were on the boat.
He was such a dear and looked it. That tin of
cocoa appeared on the table for breakfast and
lunch every day during our visit, and as I was
the presiding lady I made it with boiling water
when I made the tea. After breakfast we took
the train to Greenrock, and from there we came
by steamer to Roseneath. The Duke says that
Roseneath castle is of the Italian school of
architecture, and it faces right on the Gairloch.
The housekeeper, an elderly person in a black
silk dress with a gold chain and locket about
her neck, was waiting to receive us when we
arrived. She and a small black and white dog
called Chintzy, an Italian spitz belonging to
the Princess, seemed so glad to see the Duke.
The Princess is in Germany. The house as the
Duke explained it is done up in curlpapers or
linen dust covers. There is a very fine library
here, but this is not the original castle as
it was burnt and rebuilt in the time of the
present Duke’s grandfather I think. There is
still part of it unfinished inside.
We leave here
on Saturday for Inverary having been here just
two days. The Duke brought us here because he
wanted to show us Roseneath, and we are very
quiet and just read and drive or walk about
the place. The book-room as the Duke calls it
[is] in the tower at the back of the castle
[and] is full of books. There is one particular
avenue that has its ghostly lady who walks up
and down it at certain times, and there is one
tree with a such a lovely smooth trunk to it,
that when "Dizzy" (Disraeli) was visiting
here he remarked that it looked like the leg
of a beautiful woman in a grey silk stocking.
Scott writes about Roseneath in "The Heart
"We are having a wonderful time. On Saturday
at nine o’clock we left Roseneath, and came
by boat to Inverary. It is a lovely trip and
the locks and hills with their atmospheric effect
are beautiful. We were on the steamer from nine
till two-thirty, and had lunch on board. The
captain’s cabin was put at the Duke’s disposal,
and the steward was so anxious to show him some
attention that he kept bowing and scrapeing
and going over a list as long as your arm
to see if there was possibly anything he could
do for us. All this attention rather annoyed
the Duke who refused everything, so the steward
turned to me and said, "Would you most
gracious lady accept a box of chocolates?"
which I most kindly did to the Duke’s displeasure
and got rid of the man, so the box of chocolates
joined the tin of cocoa on its tour through
the Kyles of Bute and Arran to Inverary.
There was an Irishman
on board "The Lord of The Isles" Mr.
Cumming Macdonagh who was coming also to stay
with the Duke at Dalchenna. He is the most amusing
man with such a constant fund of amusing stories
of which a great many were at his own expense.
He had a pair of field glasses which he presented
to me and a map of the Argyll country. The Duke’s
nephew Frank Balfour was also on board. He was
going to visit his other uncle Lord George Campbell
who has rented the castle from the Duke at Inverary.
He is about 18 or 19 and looks not unlike his
sister Joan. He was very curious and I noticed
him investigating us when he thought nobody
was looking. He informed me that he had been
to a dance the night before, and really he had
met so many girls that he could not remember
their names, and had to put them down on his
programme under such headings as "Pink
ribbon["] or "Blue Dress." I
suppose he thought I was impressed.
is a small place about two miles below the castle,
where the Duke liked to go with any friends he
wished to have with him for a quiet holiday. He
loved this place and said it was much more like
home than living in a palace. He was so domesticated,
and I don’t think anybody would have enjoyed their
children more than he, had he had any. At Roseneath
he showed me a table that held some special treasures
under a glass top, among which was his wife’s
wedding fan. Dalchenna is right on the shore of
Loch Fyne, and from there all you can see is miles
of hills and loch and sky lines. Sometimes it
rains on the water while the sun shines through
the clouds on the heather on this hills, causing
a rainbow atmosphere veiled by a purple mist indescribably
beautiful. My father gives you descriptive touches
of this Highland scenery in his ballad "Glen
in loneliness, splendor and clouds
Where the grim mountains life up their headlands
Hushed in its rain mists walled from the
Dreams the glad vale of Glen Eila."
"Lone are its hills to the edge of
With their brows flame-tipped with the heather."
• • •
"’Til I stand once again ’mid the sun
and the rain
Where the mountains slope down with their
is many years since we were at Dulchenna but I
can still recall the impressions I had as I stood
on the shore of Loch Fyne with my father and the
Duke absorbing all this atmosphere. Gradually
we seemed to become a part of it all and were
lost in visions of the past. We lived again in
scenes of strife and heard the sob and skirl of
the pipes as they urged us into battle, led by
a proud and haughty chieftain. Then the scene
changes and we see a lonely shepherd on the hills
visioning things as he watched his sheep. All
was bleak and still under a pale grey mist, and
the call of the gull was so lonely that you wanted
to go into the house and close the door, shutting
the warmth within lest it escape you. The shepherd
was musing on the beauty of his surroundings,
when suddenly he saw his brother Colin and heard
him call for help. Colin who was thousands of
miles away in some far colony. Oh, the agony of
that cry and the shepherd’s powerlessness to reach
his brother. Then seeing that Colin has gone beyond
all need of him, the shepherd knows that he must
wait for weeks perhaps, till some ship beings
him news of his brother’s death. We going in the
house and up the stairs meet Colin on the landing
and pass on.
a race the Highlander produces a good many poets
and prophets, and in the past these seers were
supposed to be endowed with second sight, which
enabled them to see more clearly, and to have
uncanny premonitions of things before they actually
father’s love for Scotland was one of the greatest
factors in his life, a love all most unbelievable
in this modern struggle for existence. It is all
expressed in "The Answer" and "The
World Mother[.]" The letter continues:—
drive a great deal and the Duke is teaching
me to play golf and billiards. With the help
of the gard[e]ner, some flower pots, and some
bits of red cotton for flags, we have laid out
a rough sort of links on the shore of the loch
where we play every day. The Duke and I always
play against papa and Mr. Macdonagh, and we
share one wooden club between us, a brassie,
which we use on most occasions. It is such fun,
and keeps one keyed up to a top pitch, and the
air is heady and stimulates you like wine. One
seems like the favored and beloved of the Gods.
Mr. Macdonagh says golf clubs should be hollow,
and contain liquid nourishment in the form of
whisky to be consumed on the links. He is a
fat old man but so witty that he keeps us in
fits of laughter all the time. I call him the
Duke’s jester. He has been all over the world
in many capacities. He was once in holy orders,
and said that he had to leave the church, and
country for marrying the wrong couple, he married
the bride to the best man, or the groom to the
bridesmaid, so he says. Anyways he drove a charbane
in the Andes in South America for seven years
to escape the penal servitude the law allowed
for this offence. He was also a member of parliament,
and when his son was old enough to study law,
he studied with him and read for the bar. He
spins out yarn after yarn till in the midst
of our laughter we wonder where truth begins
and fiction ends. He says he has formed a society
called the "Gay Golfers" of which
I’m to be a member the idea of which is to be
natural expressed in music thus
or the club badge or paper, the combined
G’s in the crest
representing gay golfers with the motto
underneath. He dubs himself convener of the
"Gay Golfers." I was also presented
with his photograph taken years ago when he
was quite slim. He is very fond of his dinner
and his wine, and tucks his table napkin under
his chin across his shirt front when he eats
his soup. Altogether he is a scream. In the
evening at billiards the Duke gives him a papa
a handicap of 50, and when we beat them which
we always do Mr. Macdonagh does not like it.
The first night after dinner I went in to the
drawing room alone to wait for the men, but
I got so tired waiting for them that I went
back and knocked on the dining room door. I
have never heard the end of it, and I am not
allowed to leave the dining room now till the
men do. Mr. Macdonagh seems to know and have
known all the distinguished people of his day.
The Duke is most abstemious, and drinks nothing
but hot water with his meals, and sometimes
a little claret at dinner. He even watches what
I eat and chooses my portions of meat when the
footman passes it at lunch or dinner. He says
I am not to eat anything at tea time because
it will spoil my dinner, and at half past four
every day there is the most scrumptious tea
laid out in the drawing room with every kind
of Scotch bap, bun, cake or scone imaginable,
and strawberry jam. I am afraid sometimes when
we come in from one of our walks I go right
to the drawing room before the Duke appears,
for when he does of course I am always there
to make the tea for him. (Smug cat full of cakes
and strawberry jam[.]) We walk a great deal
in the rain, and the Duke carries a rain coat
on his arm, that eventually drags on the ground,
and the old cap that was stuffed in his pocket
on the train on his head. No matter how many
times I tell him the coat is dragging and he
adjusts it, it always goes back the same way,
so now we let it drag by mutual consent. This
morning we drove round the head of Lock Fyne
to Arkinglass on the other side to call on Sir
Andrew & Lady Noble. They brought Arkinglass
from the Callanders. Lady Archibald Campbell
was a Callander. Lady Georgia Campbell, who
is a dear, and her eldest daughter, who is a
beauty, came to call on us and asked us to lunch
at the castle. Joan is about 18, and is very
nice. The four young Balfours are staying with
Lady Georgie. After lunch we were shown all
over the castle, and saw the Queen’s room where
Queen Victoria slept. Then we climbed Duni-Quoich,
the tallest peak on the hills round here, and
saw an old watch tower on top of it. All the
men were out shooting, so there was only our
party for lunch, besides Lady Georgie, her two
daughters Joan and Enid and Joan and Alison
Balfour. They wear any old clothes here in the
daytime, because it rains so much, but in the
evenings, on the contrary, the ladies wear most
lovely things, and the men are gorgeously arrayed
in the gay tartans of their clans if they have
the honour to be a Highlander, otherwise they
go clothed, as other dull mortals do. The Duke
does not wear a kilt any more. He says he is
too old, but then he looks so distinguished
anyway, that all the gay trappings in the world
are quite unnecessary. The Duke had his carriage
and horses here and we were driving. Lady G.
drove with us but the others rode their bicycles.
Joan Balfour said that at their place in Berwick
they had motors, and a special car just for
We met Arthur
Elliott, a brother of Lord Minto, with his son,
when we were out one day. They were on a fishing
tour up the loch, and came and had tea with
us. He was the Duke’s best friend at Eton.
There are to be
some Highland games at the castle tomorrow,
and people came from quite a distance to see
them. To night Niel Munro the novelist is coming
to dinner. He has a house at Inverary. I am
reading one of his novels written about an old
castle we saw this morning, "Castle Doom".
The Duke has a pianola that I am so fond of
playing, and he says any book I want he will
telegraph to London for immediately. He introduces
himself to everybody as my ancestor, and says
he is the father of all the Campbells. He gives
me all the parcels to open that come by post,
because he says women are so curious and like
of us here at Dachenna make a nice cosy party
that just fills the carriage for our little
excursions up and down the loch. We are having
a wonderful time, I never enjoyed myself so
much, and papa loves every minute of it. This
afternoon we went to the castle to see the Highland
games that are held there every year. They were
very good especially the dancing. Lord Archibald’s
son Neil Campbell (the present Duke) is the
Duke’s heir. He made a special speech and Lady
Georgie presented the prizes[.] Neil has a small
shooting box across the loch and comes over
for breakfast sometimes. He is fine looking
and seems very nice."
we do something, and yesterday we went fishing.
We had a man in the boat trawling, and each
of us had a line, but I was the only one who
caught a fish, a Loch Fyne herring. We ate it
for breakfast this morning. After lunch we climbed
a steep hill to see a large waterfall from the
top. The burns are a lovely amber color, and
there are two quite close: the Aray beside the
castle, (they call it a river which seems so
absurd after our large rivers in Canada) and
the Douglas Water below Dalchema. They flow
down the side of the hills in lovely waterfalls
into Loch Fyne, forming pools in places where
salmon are to be found. After we called at a
croft where the Duke’s old nurse used to live,
but there was nobody there but a dirty old woman.
She curtsied to the Duke, and was so glad to
see him. She wanted to give us something to
drink which the Duke refused.
of Killberry is staying with us now for the
Highland games. He lives farther down the loch.
He is a very handsome tall dark man, and he
and all the young men here wear th kilt with
tweed coat and waist coats in the daytime, and
dress ones at night. They look simply stunning,
but that great tall man staying with us is like
a very small boy, for he hates being beaten.
The first night at billiards when the Duke and
I played against him and papa and Mr. Macdonagh
with the usual handicap and beat them he was
furious. He said he was going to stay another
night so he could beat us. He did stay, but
we beat him again and he was not a bit pleased.
As he walks, and leans over the billiard table
to use his cue, his kilt has such a swing to
it, and his costume is so handsome, dark broadcloth
coat and waistcoat with silver buttons, the
Campbell tartan kilt and stockings, and shoes
with great silver buckles. They say he is devoted
to Joan Campbell who is a beautiful girl and
a great belle, but it does not seen to be mutual.
Perhaps that is why he does not like being beaten
Lord George has
one son Ivor who is still at Eton, he wears
a black velvet coat and scarlet waistcoat in
the evening to wear with his kilt. Lord George
is a small man and wears a monocle Enid Campbell
their youngest daughter is only a child and
spends her time with the Balfours. The Balfours
are here still so we have seen a good deal of
them. The other night we went to the castle
after dinner to hear the Campbell pipers play.
It was quite a sight to see all these men in
the tartan in the great hall of the castle with
its high ceiling, upper galleries, old portraits,
and armour which gave it quite a feudal air.
The chief was there, the ancestor as he styles
himself and all the men of his family in full
dress to do him honour as they might have done
in the olden times. Papa must have been satisfied
for he felt that he was in his would be native
atmosphere, the realistic heights of his ancestral
imaginings. I was thrilled with it all. Mr.
and Mrs. Philip Noble, Lady Arthur Butler, and
her two nieces, with the Balfours made up Lady
George’s house party. Mr. Noble is a son of
Sir Arthur Noble. They have invited us to visit
them in Northumberland on our way south."
was very sad leaving Inverary, it was like coming
to the beloved home after years of wandering to
realize that one must after a time pick up and
still go on. I am afraid I wept in the night at
the thought of our departure.
Duke wrote to me on August 28th.
was very glad to hear from you, and to know
that you are enjoying your tour. Please tell
your father that I have written to the Duke
of Sutherland about him, and also to Principal
Laing. The Duke says he will be very glad, The
Principal ditto—but that he is only allowed
to make a few presentations to the King, and
that these are already alloted, so I have written
to Lord Knolleys who remains in England while
the Kind is away, and who is the King’s secretary
to see if any presentation at Aberdeen can be
managed. I am not going to Aberdeen myself,
having excused myself from being again "doctored."
With many good
wishes and hoping I may sometime have you as
my guest again."
father was chosen to represent The Royal Society
of Canada at the Centenary of Aberdeen University,
and the opening of the New building in September.
It was to be a big affair, and there were to be
delegates from all over the world. The Duke was
trying to arrange for my father’s presentation
to the King there.
Duke was such a dear, with a whimsical sense of
humour. I will quote some extracts from his letters
written to me after our return to Canada.
"Here I am at the little house whose sitting
room became such a place of trial in the evening
after dinner when the gentlemen of the party
are not present. There is only one lady here,
Mr. Russell Stephenson’s daughter, but she has
as yet (after two evenings) not made any such
demonstration as attended your brief withdrawal
from the dining-room—perhaps because we have
hitherto accompanied her in her retirement.
"I am looking
forward to seeing some more of your father’s
work. The Canadian book is very readable, and
is the best for a comprehensive account of the
country. I wish you were here and that I could
carry you both off tomorrow to Oban, whither
we go for the annual games regatta and balls
tomorrow. There is to be a warship there, and
all the girls desire to have the officers presented
to them,—a strange fatuity for sailors being
a characteristic of the species."
again on December 23rd./08 he writes—
I think you must get that "funny story"
from that A.D.C. What have they been saying
behind my back I wonder. I shall look to you
to see that they don’t "tread on the tail
of m[y] coat" otherwise they will have
your brother Basil back from training on their
backs to reinforce your remonstrances.
It is a pleasure
to send you and your father greetings this Yule
Tide. I shall look out for the brace of volumes
you tell me are to appear from his pen."—
"We have four Canadian Cabinet ministers
in England, and I saw all four round a nervous
little English Poet Master General the other
day, and he looked like a Scots Terrier surrounded
by four Mastiffs. I think he is still alive,
but his hair is distinctly whiter. Now let me
wish you all the blessings of the New Year."
"My Dear Faith:—
is gone the way of all flesh, and has been cremated
over a year. Chintzy presents her compliments
to you and is quite well and fat.
I hope you will
have been able to see some of the Quebec proceedings.
Here we have had "Pageants" without
end, and they have much amused and also instructed
the people. I shall be very anxious to see the
novel and hope it may be a great success.
Strathcona started off at a moment’s notice
when Sir Wilfred said he would like him to be
present at Quebec. (for the pageant there)—
I shall miss you this Autumn at Dalchenna. With
many messages to your father."
"Thanks for your nice letter, I am very
sorry your father and you could not manage to
visit the old country during this last year—but
it will keep and you will find it still afloat
tho rather water logged. I can imagine you firing
much ammunition of eloquence at your Debating
Society (nay Court Club) where we had political
debates which became so hot they had to be abandoned)
I hope the young ladies will allow their ministerial
or Parliamentary fathers some peace from discussions
at home. I met 18" [sic] beyond
Sea Dominion Editors the other day at Lord Rosebery’s.
I found they were all keen about the subject
you mention namely Naval Support—but they had
18 different ways of giving that support. It
will pan out all right. If the ships be given
by Canada, you and all the girls will have to
do what has been done here—namely get a good
piece of plate for each ship given by the girls
to the officers, to be shown in a conspicuous
place on the deck when nothing can be washed
away. My country ship the Cruiser "Argyll"
won the 1st. prize at Jamestown last year in
the Navy competitions against all the International
fleet there. Rather good wasn’t it?"
• • •
all our wanderings among these people, Wilfred
Campbell was ever thinking and discussing with
them his hopes and fears for the British Empire
and her people. Such fancies and schemes he wove
for their betterment and welfare, the last fancy
to be quickly forgotten in the glories of painting
the newer, and always he was in the forefront
of the battle as a prophet, knight, or soldier
in their cause.
We arrived in
Edinburgh on Monday evening. Right up to the
last the Duke was extremely kind and accompanied
us to the boat when the time came for our departure.
We travelled all the way to Edinburgh with Mrs.
Philip Noble who was one of Lady George’s guests.
She is a sister-in-law of the Mrs. Noble Lord
Grey gave us a letter to, and a daughter-in-law
of Sir Andrew Noble who has the estate Arkinglars
just across Loch Fyne from Inverary. It used
to belong to Lady Archibald’s people the Callanders.
Mrs. Noble has invited us to stay with them
at their place in Northumberland. A daughter
of Sir Andrew’s is married to the Mr. Cochrane
Lord Grey wrote to about Basil. Papa and Mrs.
Noble became good friends, and he sent her a
book of his poetry.
came with us as far as Glasgow. He is very amusing,
in fact so much so that papa is going to put
him in a book. He gave me his photograph and
said that when we were in Liverpool he would
put us up.
the Duke’s heir came to see us off. He is a
fine looking young man who takes a great interest
in the family and gave papa some trees he had
One evening we
went up to the castle to hear the Campbell pipers
play. The three pipers were in the Campbell
tartan with banners waving over their shoulders
with the boar’s head on them. It was a full
dress affair, in fact every night is, so I wore
my white and pink several times. The Duke is
sending some framed pictures of Inverary straight
to Ottawa for me. Neil Munro is sending me a
book which is also going to Ottawa. The Duke
asked me to write to him, which I am very glad
of, because I think most likely we will go back
before we return home. We go to Ripon on the
Edinburgh is one
of the most beautiful cities in the world, and
is called modern Athens for its situation on
seven hills. This morning we went to St. Giles
and saw the tomb of the great Marquees of Argyll
and also Montrosé’s tomb. They were rivals in
the church question in Charles V time and Montrose
defeated him at the battle of Inverlochy. We
went to see the picture galleries and we saw
some of each of the great Venetian painters
whose lives I read about in the History of Venice
you gave me to read last winter which made them
From this you
will see that we are at Mrs. Noble’s. We left
Edinburgh on Tuesday having been there exactly
one week. I was very pleased with it and found
it much above my experience.
The Nobles we
are staying with now have a beautiful old manor
house in Northumberland. The house is beautifully
furnished, and Mrs. Noble is good looking. Her
husband is also young and one of the handsomest
men I’ve ever seen. They have four children.
The eldest is nine. She dresses beautifully
but is very sensible about it. Altogether they
are very nice. There is a certain amount of
gush about all these fashionable women but one
must allow for that. It was very kind of her
to ask us as she had only met us at Inverary
one night, and happened to come to Edinburgh
these letters after all the years, one rather
smiles at the decided opinions of the young, for
at 17 one had not had much experience of fashionable
have breakfast and tea right outside in the
lovely old garden, lunch in the hall and dinner
in the dining-room. The whole downstairs except
the drawing-room is paneled in old oak. Mrs.
Noble sings and plays the piano very well. This
morning papa and I drove twenty miles in the
motor to the other Mrs. Noble’s, the one Lord
Grey wanted papa to meet, and had lunch there.
They have one pretty child a girl Veronica.
We drove very quickly from 25 to 30 miles an
hour. This Mrs. Noble is rather a more handsome
woman than our hostess, but her husband is not
good looking. They have another fine old Manor
house in Northumberland. She (Mrs. George Noble)
was dressed as a Kate Greenaway girl and looked
awfully nice but our Mrs. Philip Noble said
it was a mere pose and the fad in London at
present. Just the same I liked her immensely
and she was very nice. Her hobby is bookbinding,
and she has a work shop where she did some most
beautiful work in tooled leather. She said she
must bind a copy of papa’s work. After lunch
we drove 12 miles farther on to Chillingham
castle, that has been rented by Sir Andrew Noble,
and had tea with Lady Noble and Miss Noble.
This castle is one of the most famous in England.
It has a court yard in the center and wonderful
old paintings. We met several people Sir Benjamin
Brown and his wife, one or two young ladies
and Mr. Cochrane who married the younger Miss
Noble. After tea we went outside, and were fortunate
to see the famous herd of white cattle in the
distance. We could not go too near in case we
frighten them. We had to drive home 40 miles
for dinner, and were late. There was a gentleman
for dinner[,] a young barrister from London.
Tomorrow we are going to Newcastle and papa
is going over the Armstrong works, and is to
show Basil’s drawings to an expert there. This
visit came in very nicely as the Macfarlans
were leaving Edinburgh and we are not going
to Ripon till the 4th. also this is on the way
Papa is to be
doctored as the Duke puts it at Aberdeen and
will get his degree of LL.D. there. He is very
pleased about it. I wrote to the Duke the other
day. You will be very much surprised, but since
I’ve been with the Duke I’ve taken to papa’s
fondness for the family and have been reading
Campbell history ever since. Papa’s publishers
presented him with a large handsome copy of
the life of the Great Marquess. On Monday we
had tea with old Professor Masson. His daughter
who is an old maid and writes books gushed away
to papa, and when the Professor came into the
room and we rose to shake hands with him, she
said to me so everybody could hear her. "Is
he your brother or your father, for he might
"I got your letter this morning and also
one from Margery. Papa has made some very strong
friends over here, so have I. The one I like
the best and likes me the best is the Duke of
Argyll. I got a lovely long letter from him
this morning. Mrs. Boyd Carpenter and the Bishop
are very nice. There are two daughters at home
one little girl is 13 and another 20 who sings
rather well. The other visitors are Mrs. Darcy
Hutton, a very handsome old lady and a Professor
Campbell and his wife and a Captain, a young
man with a very red face. They live very simply
and my clothes are quite as good as Miss Boyd
Carpenter’s, and for my age are quite good enough
so don’t worry about them. The Palace is a huge
place with a quaint little chapel where we have
prayers twice a day. It is worth one’s while
to stay here if only for the opportunity of
hearing the Bishop in the pulpit. He is a man
with a wonderful personality. Mrs. Boyd Carpenter
is very like Lady D., so you must have already
guessed that I like her very much.
This morning papa,
Mrs. Hutton, and I drove to Clifton Castle for
lunch. We met Lady Knowles who resides there.
All the rest of the family were away except
two grandchildren, children of Lord Admiral
Curzon whose wife was a daughter of Lady Knowles,
a new baby a few weeks old and a girl of about
ten. Lady Knowles is a great friend of Lord
Grey’s and she and papa had quite a few friends
in common. Tomorrow we go to see Fountains Abbey
one of the most famous ruins in the world. We
were with Mrs. Noble just a week. She was very
kind to us, and took us a great many places.
We will be home soon now I expect. The "Virginian"
sails on the 11th. of October, and as papa wants
a few days in Ireland, it will be just about
the time we will be ready to go."
Your letter came
this morning and I was very glad to get it.
About the child Miss Grey said that if it were
a girl she would like her called Diana.
I am having a
lovely time. We stayed with Mrs. Philip Noble,
a sister[-]in[-]law of Lord Grey’s Mrs. Noble.
We met the whole family Sir Andrew and Lady
Noble and the two daughters Miss Noble and Mrs.
Cochrane. We liked Mrs. Philips immensely. She
had the most beautiful voice I’ve ever heard
and played the piano not with a great deal of
skill in technique, but made it fairly sing
with such expression. She and papa were great
friends. She kept up more style than any place
we’ve stayed at. Her house is beautiful and
You have heard
I suppose that papa is to get a degree at Aberdeen.
The Bishop is going to be there too and will
get a D.D. which he has already had five times.
The Boyd Carpenters are most delightful people.
We have made a great many friends here. The
Duke wants me when I am married to come and
buy a place in Argyllshire which I certainly
intend to do, in fact I shan’t marry any man
• • •
is a letter from Wilfred Campbell written to my
mother, that I discovered among mine.
We arrived here
today from Whalton where I wrote you last. We
had a nice week with the Nobles who have a fine
old Manor House. Mr. Noble is a son of Sir Andrew
Noble who is general manager of the Elswick
Works. Frank Balfour took me over the works
last week where they make cannon and—He took
Basil’s drawings, and is to leave them with
an expert who is to judge them, and he will
report to me.
We will go from
here back to Edinburgh and up to Creich where
we will stay till the Aberdeen affair is over.
My novel will appear early in October.
Faith is enjoying
herself and learning much. The Bishop and Mrs.
Carpenter are both nice. He is a good deal of
a Campbell and a North of Ireland one, and is
a cousin of ours and also McNeill’s. He is one
of the greatest men in the church. He and I
are both to get degrees at Aberdeen."
I am going to
Aberdeen with Papa for several reasons, first
it is a long trip and we have no time to come
back, then it is a great social function, and
delegates from all over Europe will be there
and I will see the King and Queen. Dr. Fraser
has invited both of us to stay with him, and
it will cost very little as we have passes most
of the way."
"We went to Dunrobin today for lunch saw
the castle, drove to see a technical school
that the Duchess of Sutherland and Mr. Carneigie
had built them. Then we came back[,] saw the
gardens[,] had tea, and then back to Creich.
The Duke and Duchess were at their shooting
lodge much farther North so we did not see them,
but Miss James the private secretary invited
us. The Duke had written to the Duke of Argyll
saying he would be glad to see Papa, but we
came too early. The Duke of Argyll has been
so very kind to us. It was he who arranged for
Papa’s presentation to the King and got one
of the Professors to invite us to stay with
him. All this he did of his own accord with
out our knowing anything about it, except Papa
happened to mention that he would like to meet
the King. The kindness of this man exceeds all
imagination. He used to say to me pointing to
Papa, "Don’t you think he should be Sir
Wilfred," and he always calls him Sir Wilfred.
Mr. Carnegie asked
me to tea this week. Papa called and he said
how sorry he had been about our visit to them,
but his little girl had been very ill. Papa
heard from Mr. King and we are to meet him in
London. Mr. King says he hopes to have a good
time with us. He can only stay a few weeks so
we may have the pleasure of crossing with him.
We go to Aberdeen on Monday having been here
just two weeks. The next letter I write will
be from Aberdeen telling you all about it."
We are in Aberdeen.
Dr. Fraser is an old bachelor, but such a nice
man. He has a fine house on the main street
with an automobile, gramophone and pianola so
I am in my glory. (These things were not so
common in those days.) Sir Norman and Lady Lockyer
with ourselves make up the house party. Sir
Norman is an astronomer. We have a great many
invitations, but we have to decline a good many
as our time is already taken up. This is our
second day. Yesterday was the reception of the
delegates, and it really was a great sight to
see and hear learned men from all over the world.
Tell Mrs. L. that I heard the Principal of Heidelberg
speak in German. Today they were capped, and
tomorrow the King and Queen open the new building,
and the presentations are to be made. Papa is
very popular, and a good deal in demand consequently.
He [has] got [the] most gorgeous robes, scarlet
bound with sky blue. The city is packed with
crowds of prominent people, and there is not
a room or a carriage to be had for love or money.
The city decorations are very fine, and it is
as gay as a great pageant or carnival to see
all these delegates driving around, arrayed
in their different bright college robes and
hoods, or ancient orders. Sir Norman and Lady
Lockyer are very nice, and she and I go to all
the functions together. From nine in the morning
till eleven at night the men are on the go,
but we ladies don’t do so much. It is really
one of the greatest things they have had in
Scotland for a long time. They say that it is
the most famous list of degrees ever known to
be given at one time. Lord Strathcona, The Bishop
of Ripon and Andrew Carnegie are here among
the delegates. We go from here to Edinburgh
for a few days, and then to London where Papa
is to lecture, and we will meet Mr. King."
is the last of the letters of that summer of 1906
that my Mother kept. I can vaguely recall certain
scenes, and incidents that happened to us in Aberdeen.
I remember sitting in that vast place, and waiting
with such exciting anticipation for my first view
of King Edward and Queen Alexandria and also to
hear the King’s voice as he declared the building
open. It was after this that the presentations
also remember our running into some adventurous
looking gushing literary lady who presented Papa
with a book of hers that we tried hard to lose
on our way home from some expedition where we
met her. We threw it away, and it was carefully
picked up and brought to us by some kind person
who thought we had dropped it. Then we left it
on the seat in the train and the porter came running
after us with it. There were all sorts of celebrations,
and the city and neighboring estates opened all
their doors to entertain the delegates.